Radio control has been used to control garden railways for some time. The benefits of not having to power long lengths of outdoor track work are obvious. Also, the use of larger locos with roomy tenders enables the use of relatively large battery packs and other RC components. With the availability of smaller components, better battery packs and more efficient motors, the benefits of Radio Control can be transferred to all but the smallest ‘O’ Gauge locos. By using a match truck even, the tiny NER K Class can be converted to RC.

Then there is no need for pickups or rail wiring. Because power is direct from the battery to the motor there are no problems with short circuits, dirty wheels or pickups. In fact, no need to clean the track at all, you can just leave it to develop the patina of wear created by your stocks’ wheels. With RC it is the loco that is controlled, not the track. This does mean that point operation is more important because if the point is not set correctly the train will derail ‘just like the real thing’.

There is a cost but I suspect it is similar to DCC and depends on how many bells and whistles you want to add. I use Deltang kit which is a relatively cheap and easy way to start. I did spend some time on the internet researching RC for model railways, to ensure that I had at least some idea of what I was doing before I started cutting up perfectly good locos. ‘RC Trains’ and the ‘Dead Rail Society’ are good places to start. The DRS is an American site so much of the kit recommended is not available in the UK but it gives links to useful YouTube videos. Once you get a clear idea in your mind about what is required, the actual fitting is relatively easy.

I have now converted six tank engines and one tender engine. Converting existing engines does present some problems, especially with small engines because a certain amount of butchery is required. When building a new engine from scratch or kit it is easier to make provision for the RC components.

The first engine I converted was a NER Class 84, a diminutive Victorian 2-4-0 saddle tank. My thinking was, “if it will fit in that it will fit in anything”.

Before fitting anything it was necessary to buy a transmitter and battery charger. The transmitter is a Deltang Tx 22 which can be used to control up to 12 locos. The charger is suitable for the rechargeable NiMH batteries that I decided to use.

The battery pack for the Class 84 is made up of four AAA batteries, that fit comfortably in the boiler, giving an output of 4.8v. The Class 84 is fitted with an ABC motor gearbox and 4.8v is enough to power it at scale speed for a full operating session. A fuse of the self-switching type protects the receiver and motor. The receiver is a Deltang Rx60-22 which measures 11 x 22.5 mm. and fits easily into the small coal bunker. The picture shows the receiver pulled out of the bunker. The receiver will not work if completely enclosed in metal. However, you can see from the photo that a small gap is enough even when concealed under coal.

I had to cut a hole in the bottom of the bunker so that the wiring could pass under the cab to link up with the battery and motor. It is a bit of a tight fit but all tucks in. The switch and charge socket were awkward to fit if I was to keep them out of sight. I settled on fitting them between the frames. Not ideal but it works. The photo shows how it all fits somewhat cosily together.

So far, the largest loco I have fitted is a NER Class C ( J21 ). All the components fitted easily in the tender and I was able to fit 8 AAA batteries giving 9.6 V. This was ample to pull a long goods train around Keighley Club’s Ravensbeck layout for two continuous hours. It would have lasted longer but I got bored with watching it going round and round.

A small NER tender showing the charge socket and switch fitted in the coal space.

I have not given a blow-by-blow account of the actual conversion because each one is slightly different. However, the wiring is simple once you have worked out where you can best fit the components. Also, I have not fitted sound to any of my locos, though this is available if you have the space and inclination.

The kit of components, plus the Transmitter, I have used for all my conversions. A battery pack between 4.8v and 12v, to fit in the loco, a self-resetting fuse, Rx60-22 receiver , SPDT switch, and a DC charging socket. Deltang make a larger receiver for larger locos and those with old style open frame motors.

The following sites / business can supply equipment and /or information. I have no connection with any of them other than being a customer.

• Micron Radio Control: Supply Deltang Transmitters and Receivers.
• Strikalite: Supply a range of battery packs and will make them up to fit.
• RC Trains: A useful source of information and components. Has a link to a good blog.
• Acc+Ess protocab: Are pioneering RC for 4mm. May be of use for small locos, though more expensive.
• Deltang: Useful if you can understand the technical stuff.
• Brian Jones: Mainly aimed at garden rail, but worth a look if you have larger locos and want sound.
• Fosworks: Again mainly aimed at garden rail but worth a look for larger locos and sound.
• Dead Rail Society: Useful information.

There are more websites out there if you search, also YouTube is worth a look.

John Buck

December 2020