taken from the forum in 2018

1. Murray Bartlett, Mar 30, 2018
In the instructions of the kit I am building the instructions say to fit washers to reduce any bearing end slop. I assume this is to stop sideways movement of the wheels, and if so are the washers fitted between the bearings and the W irons. Would this be a big issue if not done, might foul the brake shoes?
Murray

2. Bill Barnes, Mar 30, 2018
Murray
Assuming it's a wagon or coach you're building, an alternative to using spacing washers is to not push the bearings fully home but glue them ( I use super glue) leaving about a mm or so sticking out. Obviously the actual amount depends on how much side play there is and make sure there's an equal amount protruding each side.
Bill

3. Chris Simpson, Mar 30, 2018
Generally I fit washers over the top hat bearing before pushing into the W iron, the same no. of washers each side to keep the axle centred. I will admit to soldering the bearings in place without using spacing washers, just lining everything up by eye.
Chris

4. Raymond Walley, Mar 30, 2018
I often solder them in without spacers by eye but using an axle to align them, that way one can get virtually no end play. On 31.5, track that mean also virtually no hunting too.
Raymond

5. Jim Snowdon , Mar 30, 2018
Murray,
If the kit (whose origins you didn't mention) has brass W-irons, then the simplest approach is to fit everything up loose, push the bearings up against the axle ends, and then solder them in place. Washers aren't strictly necessary, although you may find them a help. It depends to some extent on building technique and expertise. If the W-irons are plastic, eg as in a Parkside kit, then it is a matter of washers between the flange of the bearing and the back of the axlebox or W-iron, as well as possibly trimming the axle ends slightly. Because the Parkside axleboxes have a recess for the flange of the bearing, a single washer pushes the bearing too far towards the wheels, making it necessary to compensate by filing off the pinpoint ends of the axles (if they are Slaters - every manufacturer of wheels uses a different axle length).
As for the washers, I found that 7BA fit nicely.
Jim

6. Simon Dobson, Mar 30, 2018
Thin slices of plastruct tube make excellent bearing spacers when building plastic chassis/bogies Otherwise I’d be inclined to solder the bearings to the W irons
Best
Simon

7. Mike England, Mar 30, 2018
Re: Post #1:-
Murray
Yes fitted between the bearings and the W irons, its because wheel sets from most manufacturers have axles of different lengths . e.g. Peco in relation to Slaters.
So it generally depends on which kit verses who's wheels you are using! Personally I don't solder near to steel wheels if I can help it, as if you are not very careful, stray flux will rust the wheels, and its difficult to wash off once the wheels are in place.
Mike

8. Jim Snowdon, Mar 30, 2018
Re: Post #7:-
Particularly if still using any one of the water-based phosphoric acid fluxes, or their close relations, still favoured by many modellers.
Jim

9. Bob Alderman, Mar 30, 2018
If it's all finished and still needs washers then take one of appropriate thickness and diameter and cut off one side to make a “C” shape.
The opening to the inside diameter should be a small bit narrower than the diameter it is to fit on.
This can be pushed over the axle with a screwdriver blade on the edge. It will clip on.
I have fitted same over a driving wheel axle when the wheel retaining screw has proved reluctant.
Bob

10. Murray Bartlett, Mar 30, 2018
Thanks for the replies very helpful. The kit for interest is the LNWR Cattle Wagon. Nice to see that the Mark One Eyeball is still of use.

11. Vernon Harrod, Mar 30, 2018
Re: Post #8:-
I'm an acid fan. I use 15% dilute phosphoric acid but I use it sparingly through a hypodermic needle. I don't leave wet flux. And I have no problems with the stuff. Just don't breathe in!
Vernon