Prior to deciding on my next modelling challenge, I searched the on-line LNER Encyclopaedia and found the Petrol-Electric Autocar, designed by Wilson Worsdell and built by the North Eastern Railway in 1903; it was a VERY different railcar. To my mind however, it seemed to be operationally similar to a 2002 Japanese hybrid motor car complete with regenerative braking. Further on-line research into the Autocar revealed something very surprising; the body for No.3170 had been found, masquerading as a holiday home, in a field. It was located in Keldholme, a village near Kirbymoorside, North Yorkshire.

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Solder all the window sashes inside the doors; if you want an open window cut the sash down initially to maintain the flatness of the door inside. Solder in three dummy hinges to the appropriate side of each door. Drill out all the holes for the door and grab handles but do not fit these at this stage.

Bend up the body end angle brackets but leave the reverse bend for now. Secure each bracket with a 6BA nut and screw. Solder the nut in place onto the bracket. If you are anxious about this going wrong locate, the nut in place using a cocktail stick and then solder. Preform the coach body end etches and try to keep the curved match-boarded area free from kinks. Solder the sashes to the outer window apertures. Bend out the bracket’s reverse angle then offer up each body end so that it sits about 0.015in below the centre window (enough for subsequent glazing) and tack in place. Check that the bottom edges of each body end just overlaps the lower part of the bracket by 0.020in (if unsure, temporarily release the two screws to gain access), adjust where necessary then firmly tack in three or four places.

Having assembled the soleplate and body ends, you now have the key assembly fixture for the coach body sides. Make up a small double-ended bracket with an overall span of the soleplate plus 0.01 to 0.02in. Wedge a short stub of plastic halfway along each solebar. Offer up each body side to the above assembly resting the middle on those stubs then tack solder the end lower corners; repeat with the other side. The bottom edge of each side should overlap the soleplate by 0.020in, then tack solder the preformed bracket across the two sides. Tape the corners shut then tack solder the joints; any residual gaps can be filled later using Carrs 100 Degree solder or body filler.

Cut a 3in x15in rectangle of the 0.020in nickel- silver sheet. Don’t use tin-snips, buy yourself some nibblers to avoid distorting the cut edge. Thoroughly anneal the metal, check the temperature by pre-rubbing the metal with a bar of soap; when the metal goes dark brown it’s done. Using a set of roll-bars curve the sheet to approximately 3in radii. If you can’t get your hands on the right tool wrap the sheet around a tube 1.5 to 2 inch diameter, tape it on then roll it on a flat surface, it should end up having a nice 3in radius curvature. Cut off two 0.75in slices; these form the outer roof sections. Working from the inside lightly tack these in place with a side over-hang of 0.02 in. If the material is not distorted by the cutting out this should be straightforward. Trim the four end over-hangs to 0.02in using the nibbler or a fine saw. Solder both clerestory window etches into the body ends, then turn the assembly upside down and support it at the loose edge of the roof on two 3/8 in strips of wood, add weights inside to hold it place. Lightly tack solder the roof to the clerestory windows gaining access through the side windows, checking that the whole assembly remains square and flat. Cut off a 1.125in slice of the curved nickel silver sheet accurately. This is the clerestory roof and it needs to be temporarily held in place with equal overhangs by masking tape initially. Working from the inside, with the assembly resting firmly on wood strips, lightly tack solder all the edges. Recheck the flatness of the whole body assembly and correct where necessary. Trim the ends of the clerestory roof to get over-hangs of 0.020in. Clean up the long edges of all the roofs. Double up all the tack soldering on the coach roof and treat any big gaps as described above for the corners.

Make the roof radiator vent cover using 5 layers of 0.030in styrene 0.9in X 1.7in, chamfered on the long side then a top layer of the same material, 1.0in X 1.75in (unchamfered). After hand curving glue each layer in place chamfer down, then fit the top layer central with the other layers and the clerestory roof edges.

Mark out the positions for the ten torpedo vents and drill to suit the castings. Support the roof from underneath when drilling. Secure the vents using super glue. Finish the whole assembly by super -gluing 0.020in x 0.030in styrene strips to all roof edges.

Make 2 stiffener strips of 0.030in styrene 8.5in x 0.625in. Score one side of each with long marks to represent match boarding. Fit these 0.050in up from the bottom edge, between the middle of the pillar next to the luggage compartment and the next pillar after the passenger entry door; basically over the total length of the passenger compartment. Secure by running a fillet of super glue along the bottom edge.

Make three identical coach partitions as detailed in the drawing above. These can be made up two ways, depending on your access to a PC with copy and print capability. The hard way is to cut each of them out of the 0.030in styrene sheet then scoring them both sides to represent match boarding. After priming then painting with Natural Wood acrylic paint, you then have to glaze all nine windows. Alternately you mark out a copy of the drawing with lines to represent the match boarding then print that six times, to the correct scale, onto self-adhesive labels. Cut out all the window apertures then lightly paint the result with Natural Wood acrylic. Make three partitions using the 0.030in clear styrene sheet. Stick on the bespoke labels - job done. Two of the partitions can now be fitted either side of the luggage compartment; one against the above stiffener strip. Leave the last partition (for the other driver position) until painting of the interior and glazing has been completed.

Solder in all the door and grab handles (bent brass wire). Check all the coach body for flatness and fill any gaps. Fit the driver’s controller and brake units into both ends – see picture AC10. The driver actually stands left of the middle just like a tramcar- he has no seat. Fit the five lamp brackets, 2 on the power-plant end. I used ‘Bambi’ or light duty staples, firmly soldered into holes through into the interior body fixing brackets. The position of the middle bracket, on the trailing bogie end seems to vary depending on which photo you look at. I put mine aligned with the other two. The appearance of these can be improved by adding a riveted strip of brass underneath.

Degrease the whole assembly: I use isopropyl-alcohol. Mask the pre-finished partitions. Spray paint the whole body, inside and out, with the acrylic grey primer. Check for and remedy any imperfections. Avoiding the pre-finished partitions, paint all the interior with the Natural Wood acrylic. This is good practice for the untutored artist before attempting the exterior. Wipe off any unwelcome paint runs and blobs with a damp rag or cotton bud. Note that once acrylic paint dries, it’s very difficult to remove. Keep stirring all the acrylic paints during use to avoid separation of the tinting agents.

Paint the driver’s levers red and the control boxes/stanchions plus the cab window sills down to the floor, off-white.

Start on the exterior by painting the window areas, including the clerestory, cream. Wipe off any interior dribbles immediately. After one hour apply a second coat; this process is used for all subsequent painting. Next apply the lower body red. If you use at least two widths of artist soft brushes you will be able to do this without masking tape. The horizontal etch lines certainly help. Now paint the three roof areas off-white. Lay the body on one side and mask off the cream area with a piece of stiff card anchored by small strips of tape though the window openings. Sparingly spray the area needed for the transfers with gloss varnish; when dry do the other side. Set the painted body aside overnight.

Time now for fitting those transfers. As an aid use the photos to make a thick cardboard rule with the right character spaces in relation to a couple of window divisions. Also a gently used 6B pencil can get those letters on the same line; try this out on something else beforehand. I had a bad start but once I got the soaking time right by using unwanted letters, things got better. Leave overnight then gently spray the transfer area with satin varnish. If the transfers look okay, mask off the partitions then spray the whole body inside and out with satin varnish.

Measure the end window frame and the position of the angled bend either side of the centre frame. Cut out a cardboard pattern to suit and trim it to fit. The outer ends must extend into the corners so that they would be held in place by the subsequent side glazing. Reproduce this pattern in 0.030in clear styrene. Scratch a deep groove along the line of the angled bend. Fold-up the bend (about 20 Degrees) and then try it in place. Trim each window to fit then remove the outer protective film. Temporarily hold them in place using masking tape on the outside.

Cut out three 10in lengths of 0.03in clear Styrene 0.875in wide. Cut these into the following lengths:

• 2 @ 7.5in for passenger compartment windows
• 3 @ 1.125in for double door sashes
• 2 @ 0.625in for single door sashes
• 2 @ 0.7in for cab side window
• 2 @ 1.0in for engine compartment
• 1 @ 3.375in for engine compartment

All the windows need to have their protective film removed from one face. This is the glued side. Place them all so that their lower edge is 0.708in (18mm) up from the bottom edge of the body. Work on the inside, cushioning the body on layers of kitchen towel. Drying time of the canopy bond adhesive depends on the room temperature/amount of glue used. When dried it’s transparent.

Ensure that the end windows are in place then fit the initial cab window up against it in the body corner; hold it in place by a weight (scrap of lead/white metal) Dispense a spot of the adhesive onto a piece of plastic then transfer this to the window edge using a cocktail stick; you should see the white adhesive track around the window by capillary action. Wait for 15 minutes then fit the opposite cab window. Repeat this stage on the other end/engine compartment windows. After the adhesive has dried check that the end windows are still in place. Correct the fit as necessary by holding the body end against a foam pad and pressing down with a finger or rubber tipped pencil. Apply a spot of adhesive to the top and bottom edges. Any spillage on the outside should be removed using a moistened cotton bud; the inside still has that protective film. Remove the protective film from the inside of these initial windows then insert the last partition and secure with window adhesive. Fit the remaining windows in the above manner. Use the adhesive sparingly to avoid spillage. When the adhesive is dry remove the remaining protective films.

These are simply made from 200gms paper. Draw-out 16 boxes 0.45in x 0.9in. Either side of a centre-line draw the double curved edge of each double curtain. Pencil in the folds and the tie-backs. Paint each with a delicate wash of pale blue water colour. When dry cut them out then add a 0.060in strip of double-sided tape to the top and bottom edges. Fit centrally within the edges of the glazing, cutting down as necessary the ones for the end windows.

These were reversible back types as seen in tramcars, however these were padded and buttoned. I tried Terry Russell Trams but when they arrived I found them to be undersized. Terry was extremely helpful trying to find a way around this but in the end I decided to scratch-build my own. See details in AC 8 and AC 9 and the end result in pictures AC10 and11. (I think those people are short legged). To give an upholstered look I covered all the seat tops and backs with pieces of dimpled kitchen towel using diluted PVA adhesive then painted them dark blue with artists water colour. Make up a seat carrier from 0.020in thick black styrene sheet 8.4in x 2.25in (just less than the size of the passenger compartment). Try out the clearances between the curtained windows and the seats by initially tacking the end seats onto the carrier then tacking the carrier to the soleplate using minute pieces of double sided tape, adjusting as necessary. Fit all the seats finally in place on the carrier using polystyrene adhesive. Fit all the ‘Little people’ and admire your work.

Don’t fix the populated carrier until the soleplate underframe is complete.

There was very little detail known about Wolseley Engine or the carburation/ governor system (at least by the author of this article) so fitting-out the 3D Printed unit was difficult. However looking at images AC 10, 11 and 12 I hope you think my efforts are acceptable. The exciter generator on the raised platform needed a belt drive. I used a strip of 0.015in styrene super-gluing the ends together underneath the drive wheel. The engine oil reservoir and governor were all scratch built. All the other pipe-work was created using household type of copper electrical wiring. The routeing of the cooling water pipes up to and down from the radiator in the clerestory is very noticeable, measure that distance in the coach body to get that height fairly close. The whole power plant was initially primed then painted green and offwhite. I painted all the other stuff brass.

Take out the rocking centre box by removing the pivot. Unscrew both sides (etch plus casting) and tap the centre pivot holes 8BA. Solder in a 0.020in thick brass plate either side of the centre box to lift the pivot hole up by 0.19in (this allows more space for the gearbox/motor assembly). Cut away part of the box to provide a bit more motor freedom…see image AC 15.

Remove a wheel from one axle (use a twist and pull action) then push on the gear from the NY gearbox. This needs to be initially tacked into place with its centre offset by 8mm from the back of the remaining wheel using a minute spot of superglue. Push-fit the NY worm onto the motor shaft (not the commentator end) trapping the inner motor shaft NY bearing/washer in the process. Assemble the gearbox sides around the both the gear and worm. Meshing is automatic provided the worm lies centrally with the gear; ensure that a flat side of the motor is at right-angles to the gearbox. Fit the gearbox top cover. Apply up to 12volts to check the gearbox runs smoothly. Replace the remaining existing wheel with the 10 spoked type then fit its running mate on the other end. Check the gauge is the same as the other axle. Change the other axle wheels. Open up the gearbox and carefully superglue the gear and worm onto their respective shafts. Oil the gearbox bearings. Replace the modified centre box using 8BA screws fitted from the inside and check for its, now limited, freedom.

From the picture AC16 you will see that I made a 1in x 0.75in piece of copper clad PC board with each long edge isolated by a sawcut. I drilled a 10BA clearance hole off-set from the centre by 0.2in, isolating the hole by locally removing the copper. Secure this board to the upper flat face of the motor with epoxy adhesive. Add a 0.5in long countersunk 10BA screw through the rocking centre box to align with the off-set hole in the PC board. Connect the motor terminals to the PC board. Add a 10 BA nut to the long screw, close the assembly and retain it loosely with another nut. Make wire pick-ups to your own design. I lengthened mine by adding a loop. Solder the pickups in place ensuring the wires rub against the tyre edges. Apply some volts to each pair of wheels in turn to check functionality and correct direction of rotation.

Fit brake shoes if required. For the Wayoh bogie type I just fitted them to the most noticeable outer wheel edges. The rocking centre box is not a good anchor point for the inner pairs. Brush paint the whole bogie with the Chaos Black satin paint (decant some from the spray can).

Strip off the sides and replace the existing wheel/axles with the listed type. Add brake shoes to at least the outer wheel edges. Add a half step-board across the outer axle box. Align this with the solebar step. Brush paint the whole bogie with the decanted Chaos Black satin paint.

Cut out 4 pieces of 0.030in styrene, 0.875in x 1.125in. Cut out another 7in x 0.3in piece and use this to form the bottom and two sides of the boxes; glue these items together using polystyrene cement. Add the typical front detail using 0.020in x0.030in styrene trim. When dry clean up the edges. These items are fitted, open end up, to the soleplate immediately after fitting the trussing.

The Queen Posts are 1ft long on the prototype. These can be readily modelled using 0. 060in dia. brass rod. Start by turning or filing a 0.020in dia. spigot on one end then cutting the rod down to 0.60in. Clean up the cut end and cut a slot across that end. This accepts the 0.025in dia. N/S wire used as the truss rodding. The turnbuckles can be scratch built but they are fiddly. I’ve suggested a good supplier for both of these items. Drill four holes in the soleplate at positions 4in either side of the mid-point and 0.25in from the edge, angle the drill afterwards to aid rodding. Cut four 6in lengths of rodding wire and solder one length into either end of the turnbuckle. Open up the pre-etched holes in the soleplate to suit the posts. Feed the other ends through the soleplate gradually shaping the wire over the Posts. Pull the free ends tight and the solder them in. Clip off the surplus wire.

The power bogie has limited free movement due to the protrusion of the motor/gearbox but it’s adequate. The only pivot spacer is a 0.020in thick washer. Secure this bogie in place using an 8BA countersunk screw through a hole in the soleplate positioned 2.25in from the end. There is a half- etched guide mark. Solder an 8BA nut over this hole. To gain access to this bogie’s pivot point you need to open it up by swinging the motor/gearbox away to one side. See picture AC14. After re-closing this bogie you will need to check the pickup wiper action.

The trailing bogie requires some ability to rock both longitudinally, the centre box pivot does that, and across the line of travel. The latter is achieved by fitting an arched pad between the soleplate and the centre box. I used a 1in square of 0.19in MDF board tapped 8BA in the centre. One face was sanded down to symmetrical curve of 1.5in radius. This was centred over this bogie’s pivot point (again 2.25in from the soleplate end per part etched mark) and fixed using superglue around its edge. This bogie is loosely fixed using a cheese-head 8BA screw and washer; it should be able to rock in both planes.

When both bogies are fitted check that the soleplate sits parallel with a piece of track. Adjust the trailing bogie spacer thickness as necessary. Finally give the chassis a good run around; preferably in both directions on a test track.

would be appropriate. In the end I adopted the twin pipe system with each pipe going down from the engine, turning first out then down to the curved part. Here the pipe runs parallel to the solebar just below the bottom edge of the bogie axle boxes before diving underneath along the edge of the power bogie. It’s easier to look at the picture (AC18). You will need to fabricate a tubular silencer with a folded back outlet. Make two brass stand-off brackets to secure it eventually into position. Join the two inlet pipes together at a tee junction whose outlet enters the silencer inlet. Now you know why I took my time deliberating and why I chose plumbers solder for the pipes.

Secure all assemblies using canopy bond adhesive, it’s shockproof. Fit the seats, previously mounted on a carrier frame, onto the soleplate. Ensure that the carrier is fitted centrally with the front of the first seats 5.375in from the nearest soleplate end. Fit the power plant centrally with the frame 1in from the same soleplate end. Fit the coach body to the soleplate using two 6BA x 0.25in countersunk screws, stand back and smile. There’s not many railcar models like this anywhere…so far.

I hope you will enjoy the experience of making something designed and built almost a century ahead of today’s technology.

Although the weight of the completed Autocar is 1lb 10oz, the novel motor-bogie powered it around my track at a scale speed of 55mph and that’s probably 20mph faster than the prototype.

Quite a few compromises had to be made to keep the build effort to a reasonable level. In particular, the original braking system utilised track shoes like trams of that day. This had to be dropped for practical reasons so in the end the under-frame became a bit minimalistic.

I’m very grateful to my friends and fellow modellers, the Autocar Trust, GLOSGOG members and of course, the Guild for their support in this project. Please try to support those gallant folk restoring this singular rescued prototype.

Autocar Trust Newsletters No.1 through 21. NER Buses, Lorries & Autocars Ken Hoole 1969

Locomotives of the LNER Part 10B, Railcar & Electric Stock, RCTS

Building Coaches the Comet Way available from COMET MODELS.

• Autocar body etches & sole-plate in brass from Worsley Works.
• Fox or Gresley 8ft Wayoh bogies from Invertrain.
• Pair of 3ft 7in Mansell coach wheels, 7124G from Slaters.
• Pair of 3ft 7in 10 spoke coach wheels, 7131 from Slaters.
• Pair of Screw couplings 2002-2 from Amberly Services.
• 2 Pairs of Oval Head Buffers by Markits from Roxey RB040.
• G Coach Brass ‘T’ Handles from Invertrain.
• 8 Pairs Plastic Brake Shoes, Slaters X7C01178
• North Yard 36:1 Gearbox & Mashima 14/26 Special long-shaft motor from Branchlines.
• 0.030 in clear styrene sheet glazing.
• 2 Plastruct 7.9mm channel sections CFS0-10.
• 1 Plastruct 9.5mm ‘I’ beam section BFS-12.
• 0.030in styrene sht. for Coach Partitions & scratch-built Seats & Batteries.
• 10 Large Torpedo Vents PS60 from Parkside Dundas.
• 0.020in nickel-silver sheet, minimum 15in x 4in for the Coach Roof.
• Standing Driver/Ticket Collector with one arm raised for controls.
• Seated Passengers…Nice selection available from Amberly Services.
• 250mm of 3mm dia. Plumbers Solder or equivalent for Exhaust Pipes
• Humbrol Acrylic Paint: Virgin Red RC 421, BR Cream RC 424, Coach Roof Off-White RC 417, Apple Green RC 408, Natural Wood RC 110
• Humbrol Acrylic Gloss 35 & Satin 135 Varnish Sprays.
• Carplan Acrylic Grey Primer Spray.
• Fox Transfers, 2 sheets of Cream 4mm Cheltenham FG 1013.
• 3D Railcar Engine-7mm scale rev02 from Impossible Creations Ltd.
• Driver’s Cab Controller & Brake, 2 Sets, Terry Russell Trams.
• Satin Black Spray, Citadel Chaos Black from Games Workshop.
• Canopy Bond (for windows) from 5Star Adhesives.
• 4 x1ft Queen Posts & Turn Buckles from EDM Models.