Prepared by Tommy Day Originator John Taylor

John Taylor - Aug 16, 2017 at 5:09 PM
This one I have saved until last having started my O Gauge modelling journey back in 2008 with building a set of kit built GWR locos to play with in retirement. The grand plan has been hijacked somewhat with a desire to complete a set of four smallish LMS tank locos which I have built over the past 18 months before kit manufacturers retire/ throw in the towel over all the RTR models hitting the trade. I sold a couple of my early GWR locos to fund the project.
At any rate, with a total set of 10 locos, I really don`t need to make any more loco kits so this one is definitely the last…………. it`s time to start playing with them all.
What a cleverly designed kit to finish with…… quality nickel silver etches that are assembled with slot and tabs which are twisted to hold construction together before soldering at each stage.

Fairly comprehensive instruction book with photographic examples of the real thing at Didcot

Chassis beam compensation very well designed and a rocking rear axle to keep all wheels firmly on the track to distribute the weight.

A built in motor mount for a choice of two suggested motor /gearbox combinations ( Not supplied)

Not a sign of any whitemetal as all detailing is lost wax castings and a pre-cut and milled boiler and smokebox.

There are no extra parts to replace or upgrade with this kit and the chassis is very well detailed.

Overall, the kit tends to favour a 1940`s - British railways version, but I needed a 1930`s version to match the time period of my other stock.
I settled for making No 4851 in 1939 condition which was then given rear left hand bunker steps and access handrail. I also needed to model the as built bufferbeam auto gear without the protective `hood` so often modelled. This also meant changing the position of some of the lamp irons that are pre-etched in position (wrong for me) to aid the builder, as the front tool boxes need to be positiond central to the front splashers.

The kit does not provide the auto-gear but PeterRoles does and I fabricated what I wanted from his products. In the end decided to use Peter Roles Components lost wax lamp irons in place of the etched ones supplied to match all my other builds.

The chassis was completed using Clostermans black etch primer and chemical blackening which I learnt from my LMS builds from other modellers suggestions.

Haines10259 - Aug 18, 2017 at 6:41 PM
That looks very fine indeed. I imagine the compensation does a pretty good job of getting weight onto the drivers, but you probably don't have the problems that Bob Alderman has written about with his white metal version! The milled boiler is vastly superior to the average component in etched kits.

John Taylor - Aug 18, 2017 at 7:05 PM
Thanks one and all………..
The project continues with the cab detailing. The kit provides a substantial amount of lost wax castings and extra etchings for various cab versions.

………………………then it has been on with etch priming of the superstructure and an undercoat of very old Humbrol No 80 green before Precision/Phoenix GWR 1928-1945 loco green.

…………………………. I`m pleased with the auto-gear arrangement………………………..

Bob Alderman - Aug 18, 2017 at 9:19 PM
That backhead has an extraordinary amount of knitted plumbing! Very neat.
As for the whitemetal one, we are beam compensating the driving axles plus a central bearing point on the trailing axle.
And later in the day, without any mods, it pulled a Lionheart B set! But only on the level, 'tis the gradients that are the problem.
Bob

Jim Snowdon - Aug 18, 2017 at 9:35 PM
Hardly surprising given the weight of the things. Weight is all very well in enabling the torque from the motor to be turned into tractive effort at the wheel rims, but on any gradient, a substantial part of that tractive effort will disappear into just getting the mass of the locomotive lifted up the hill. 'Tis just the same with the prototype, but their locomotives aren't made disproportionately heavy, and their gradients aren't inclined to be as steep as ours. (Yes, I know about the unintended pun. .
Jim

John Taylor - Aug 20, 2017 at 1:49 PM
I`m gradually dragging her screaming out of the paint shop. She has had three days of paint hardening.

To make things bearable I ended up applying the black areas by hand painting which hopefully won`t be noticed after application of the final varnishing.

In the dark abyss of my paint pot collection I found an unused tin of Compucolor GWR buffer beam vermillion …. a tad bright aint it !! ?

John Taylor - Aug 30, 2017 at 4:08 PM
I’ve used a DCC Zimo MX645 from YOUCHOOS…………….
John

Parkin3928 - Jan 24, 2018 at 6:43 PM
Hi, I have started to construct one of these, I am very impressed in the accurate way it goes together. Just wondering what type of pick-ups you used

John Taylor - Jan 24, 2018 at 7:05 P
Hi Parkin
I opened the pre-etched holes in the chassis sides and fitted Slaters plunger pickups.

Moore6882 - Jan 24, 2018 at 10:51 PM
John
What wheels did you use for the trailing axle. These should be 3' 8“ diameter (the same as the large prairies) but nobody seems to make them and the 3' 7” ones I have seem to make the loco sit slightly low on the rear.
Peter

John Taylor - Jan 24, 2018 at 11:38 PM
Hi Peter
I used what the kit suggested which are Slaters 7843 3`7`` General Pattern 10 spk.
John

Moore6882 - Jan 25, 2018 at 7:36 PM
Thanks John
I bought my wheels some time ago and can only assume they are the ones I have. I put a thin layer of plasticard (15th) between the wheel cradle and the frame to level the loco but would prefer not to have it, you presumably do not have this problem. I will have another look at it including measuring the diameter of the wheels as I would imagine MOK had considered this problem. I will also have a look at my Finney 61xx kit and see what trailing wheel he recommends (assuming he does).
Peter

Parkin3928 - Jan 27, 2018 at 9:36 AM
Hi John,
Many thanks for details of pick-ups
Keith

Arun Sharma - Jan 27, 2018 at 1:38 PM
I bought my wheels some time ago and can only assume they are the ones I have. I put a thin layer of plasticard (15th) between the wheel cradle and the frame to level the loco but would prefer not to have it, you presumably do not have this problem. I will have another look at it including measuring the diameter of the wheels as I would imagine MOK had considered this problem. I will also have a look at my Finney 61xx kit and see what trailing wheel he recommends (assuming he does).
Martin recommends a 3ft 8in dia wheel with 10 spokes in his instructions - I can't find a reference to a specific Slater's wheel but I suspect I used 7843MF in my 61xx.