Originator Sandy Harper
Thread and Forum Title JLTRT 57XX class 0-6-0
Thread start date Mar 10, 2017 For full Forum thread click here - https://www.gaugeoguild.com/xenforo/index.php?threads/jltrt-57xx-class-0-6-0.152/
This kit was supplied to me with Premier Component milled rods that the client wanted fitting. There was a slight discrepancy between the length of the aftermarket rods and the etched wheel base of the kit chassis that needed sorting. The kit supplied etched rods would probably have fitted fine but I did not check them. Beware of aftermarket items. check dimensions very carefully!
I used Slaters 'square' bearings directly into the chassis without hornblocks ( the one on the left of the picture) to allow a bit of movement in the middle axle. The piece of scrap etch is to prevent the bearing turning with the axle. The bearing on the right is where I had to make the slight adjustment.
On this model it is advisable to build the back head early on, before putting the front and rear cabs together as the space is very restricted. There's a lot of plumbing in there!
The instructions for this kit are very pretty with colored isometric drawings of the parts, well most of them, but not a lot of detail on the order of construction. A novice could easily get tripped up here. You need to take your time and think quite a few steps ahead before making anything permanent. Regards Sandy
Jim Snowdon - Mar 10, 2017 at 11:22 AM It may not be the alternative rods that are wrong. The pertinent point is that whatever source the rods come from, they must match the axle centres of the frames, at which point there is a lot to be said for using some form of separate hornguide so that any adjustment can be taken care of in the build. Usually the etched rods supplied in any kit will be accurate enough, provided they have been accurate drawn in the first place, etched on the same sheet as the frames, and in the same orientation. I have met kits, fortunately only once or twice, where the rods and frame did not match as a result of any or all of the above. Early etched kits, drawn without the benefit of CAD are high on the list of suspects. Jim
Sandy Harper - Mar 17, 2017 at 11:51 AM
A huge amount of small detail to be added above the footplate. The injectors, both sides, had to be modified as one of the pipes was too short. The new length of pipe is in copper. the tank unit is not yet fixed down as it is easier to fit the tank top detail whilst it is still loose
Regards Sandy
kevinwilson - Mar 17, 2017 at 1:21 PM Looking at the photo I was wondering if you had yet to fix the resin tank body to the footplate? Having recently finished a JLTRT WD the fit of the resin parts is poor especially regarding the height of relative parts and where things should be a right angle and aren't. The tanks look high relative to the cab front by perhaps 6 inches, the visible etched tank outline on the cab front seems to confirm this as does the gap between the cast tank support and the tank. The third resin boiler for the WD was ok.
Sandy Harper - Mar 17, 2017 at 1:36 PM Hi Kevin, In my post I stated that the tank was not yet fixed down but I am already aware that there is a discrepancy between the height of the rear tank supports, and the support flange under the tanks, that will need packing with some plasticard. PAD, on RMweb, also found the same problem in his build which I have followed and found very useful. If fact I think I will probably leave the tank unattached until after painting, to make things a little easier. Many thanks for your comments. Kind regards Sandy
Jim Snowdon - Mar 17, 2017 at 1:58 PM Sandy, Looking at the pictures, there appears to be a similar discrepancy between the tanks and the cab front, which suggests that either the boiler/tank unit is just not sitting down correctly, or there is a problem with its fit to the footplate. Otherwise, it does look like a very good model, although the crankpin nuts do stand out as being rather unprototypical in comparison with the detail around them (or are they simply the customer's choice, like the rods?). Jim
Sandy Harper - Mar 17, 2017 at 3:39 PM [I]a similar discrepancy between the tanks and the cab front……………[/I] The former Jim! The tank unit is just sitting there and is not attached to anything at the moment. When it is screwed to the cab front it is in the right place. It is probably the reversing lever that is holding it up. The crank pins are Derek Mundys and were supplied along with the rods! Mechanically sound, but prototypical? I suppose they could be modified to make them more prototypical or soldering a set of CPL GWR crank pin nuts onto the face might improve them! I'll have a look. Sandy
Sandy Harper - Mar 17, 2017 at 5:01 PM
Improvement?
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Sandy Harper - Mar 17, 2017 at 5:06 PM
Now that's useful Kevin. I've only used the Slaters version and they require a 12BA screw pin to screw them onto. If the AGH version have a 10BA screw attached, then they should be a direct replacement! Result!!
Sandy Harper - Apr 19, 2017 at 5:51 PM Still a lot of detailing work to be done.
Sandy
