Peter Jary
Pictures by the author

WELL YOU’VE BOUGHT ONE or two or even a train load and they’re all the same! Yes, I’m talking about the excellent Accurascale 24.5t Hopper, lot 1/1 48 (revised).

Here’s a little job to make the occasional one different.

The earlier models, B333137 to B333492 don’t have tie bars, and have central ‘V’ hangers but don’t have the hydraulic buffers noted on later models. Also, the axle boxes are either of the square 2-spot BR types or standard RCH boxes, not the roller-bearing type as modelled. But these wagons were often modified, so photographic reference is essential. (See Paul Bartlett’s collection under the heading of 24.5 Hoppers). I can’t emphasize this enough.

The brake rodding differs here as you now have to convert the model’s rigging to a type that supports a central ‘V’ hanger. Later models as purchased had an offset ‘V’ hanger.

Luckily, these wagons were built at Shildon, so you can take some of the identical parts from the Parkside Dundas PS108 LNER 21t Hopper kit, namely the brake rigging and axle boxes. These can be purchased as a separate sprue from PECO in the same way as was possible from Parkside. Price, unknown. (Please see photo for identification).

The Accurascale RTR wagon, recently (February 2022) re-issued, is well designed, such that nearly all the parts are push fit and come apart easily with a little coercion. I attacked the job by firstly removing the tie bars with a sharp knife and discarding them.

I removed the keeper plates from each of the wheel set W-irons. I had to be very careful to make sure the roller box axles slipped out very slowly because they all have springs attached to spigots on the leaf spring mounting and retaining holes on the box itself.

At first I made up an axle box from the Parkside kit, which, after a lot of filing, was to replace the sprung axle box. It was found to be too long as the keeper plate would not fit back again. So I decided to use the existing axle box filed back together with the standard BR box with the two squares on it, filed almost flat and glued on top. That worked, as basically it was using what did initially work.

The standard RCH box can also be used, treating it in the same way, but it entails a lot more filing.

The axles and their springs were then re-fitted. To do this delicate operation, I placed a smidgen of contact adhesive at the base of the spring to keep it in place once re-positioned, and the keeper plates were then put back in place. (See further on, when replacing the wheel sets).

This is most important at this stage as, with the wheel sets in place, you can now gauge the position of the V-hangers through the cut-down Parkside brake rodding.

Next, I addressed the brake work and V-hanger. On early builds it was placed centrally on the sole bar. Being built at Shildon, I felt I could use the same brake gear as on the 21t Hoppers, suitably modified.

The double V-hangers detach from the 24.5t Hopper sole bar easily as they are a press fit. Once they are removed, I filed down the two pips on the outer V-hanger set on both sides. The brake gear is a little more difficult. Once removed, including the safety straps, brake levers and guides, lay to one side and the way is now clear to reattach and re-position the double V-hangers and the 21t brake gear. This differs from the later prototype as it has only one set of brake blocks, both set on the insides.

Now fit or glue the double V-hangers after having removed the pips centrally to the double sole bar. The Parkside brake gear was now fitted, packed to fit between the chassis cross-members. I used the usual pieces of Evergreen square rodding scraps (0.5-1.0 mm). If all has gone well at this stage, you’ll be able to fit a piece of plastic rodding through the central hole lining up with the hangers.

I took the Parkside brake levers and bent to the usual contours, noting that since this vehicle has a double Vhanger it will not support the one brake lever that has a clutch; so I removed this before fitting. The original brake lever guide was now re-attached. The brake safety straps were added, glue to the inside of the outer sole bars. When replacing the wheel sets, (see also above), I found the only way was to drop them straight in, once the axle boxes were in position. This necessitated very careful alignment due to the springs already being in place, remembering the springs are held in place with a dab of adhesive. I took care not to bend the W irons out.

Everything fitted in place with little or no adjustment of brake blocks.Initially, I sprayed it all over with Humbrol matt spray before painting or weathering this model. This helps the weathering paint to adhere to the surface, otherwise it simply won’t stick. Techniques vary here, so I will not dwell on the subject. Do what works for you. When renumbering, don’t forget to lay a surface of gloss varnish before placing the new transfers. Then, a final covering of matt varnish of your choice is applied. I used a convenient Humbrol spray can. I used enamel paints throughout. Rust mix is (62/82/113/27004). I can’t speak for other paints.

A photograph of both variants shows the difference, I hope.