Raymond Walley

Originally marketed by Southwark Bridge Models. Now part of Roxey Mouldings from whom it may still be available. SQL Server
DRIVER={SQL Server};SERVER=sql11.hostinguk.net;DATABASE=gaugegu1_gog2;UID=gaugegog1;PWD=g2Fr8*r6=yN-_4DUs$z!45;

An interesting 6 wheel Saloon

The kit was originally a Southwark Bridge Models by the late lamented Ivor Smith and taken over by Roxey Mouldings. It currently does not appear to be available so enquiries to Dave Hammersley if you want to build one.

The kit was originally a Southwark Bridge Models by the late lamented Ivor Smith and taken over by Roxey Mouldings. It currently does not appear to be available so enquiries to Dave Hammersley if you want to build one.

I began with the springs and hangers. The springs are Ivan's normal etched laminates while the hangers are made up from etches and wire. They look very delicate but are surprisingly robust once all the parts of a spring unit have been soldered up. I used my usual method of drilling appropriate holes in the RSU base plate to act as a jig and each unit was easy to produce. However, the distance for the jig pins in the instructions, stated as 28mm (for the 4mm version perhaps?) for the distance between the J hangers, is wrong and should be 49.5mm.

The parts for the brakes need the holes drilling out in the shoes and support so that they can be soldered up accurately using a wire jig. The instructions refer to this and suggest one needs patience for the job. I considered it essential if the brake blocks are really to look the part.

These parts fit into slots in the outer trucks of the Cleminson suspension unit.

Ivan's version of a Cleminson suspension system is designed to enable the wheels to be removed, hence the bolts visible on each unit. The centre unit slides horizontally inside projecting 'ears' that are soldered into the floor. Unfortunately, one pair fouls the bolt heads so I made up a couple of replacement 'L' shaped supports and soldered them in place, removing the offending parts.

Here the brakes are as complete as I intend to make them; as usual I have left off any parts that are not visible from normal viewing angles or distances but the prominent brake activating levers need to be present. However, there are eight parts 14 required to make up these levers, two per lever, but there are only five on the fret so three more had to be fabricated. The yokes are only soldered in to one side of the brake rigging. The fitting to the bolted side of the unit is free to move when the unit is disassembled to remove the wheel sets.

The ends with all the bits fitted ready for assembly to the body. I had to remove the short handrails on the right hand one when modifying both parts to make fixing to the sides easier, see later. In addition, there is no provision for the gas control handle, see later.

The fixed windows in the sides have separate bolection mouldings and the RSU came in to its own for these delicate parts. Here are both sides shewing all the parts fitted prior to assembly of the body. The window drop lights come with the hinges ready etched on to the frame so fitting them ensures both accuracy and the correct depth for the hinges; the lower door hinges are separate etched parts. There is also provision made for an open window with an integral frame. I later modified the compartment door on one side with it; there are suitable etched parts for the hinges to be added.

The parts for the floor cleaned up and ready for assembly with the overlays soldered to their bases. Like the Royal Saloon the body sits proud of the sole bars so one can see daylight between therefore, soldering them on takes a little care to ensure a good solid joint

simple matter then to solder one end to one side but be sure to fix the correct end to the correct side; they are handed because the body will only fit one way. That's right; I got it wrong first time!

Here are the two joined sides and ends awaiting final assembly. The open window in the left compartment is visible.

And here are the two side/end units assembled to form the body with the compartment partitions added. This makes up into a robust unit and all that now needs to be added are the three roof-fixing cross members. A piece of scrap brass was used to blank off the lavatory from the corridor.

Now what is required is a roof. The recommended method for the roof is to use layers of plasticard sanded to shape. An extremely messy method very prone to excessive electrostatic dust all over the workshop, as mentioned by Ian Hopkins when he built one for the Royal Saloon. I have decided to try using timber instead, lime wood with a shellacked card finish and fix it with self-tappers through the roof support ribs.

Here is the basic roof section shewing evidence of a previous attempt to glue the card in place, unsuccessfully. The profile is not difficult to carve and sand into shape having made a negative master based on a spare end.

Here is the basic roof section shewing evidence of a previous attempt to glue the card in place, unsuccessfully. The profile is not difficult to carve and sand into shape having made a negative master based on a spare end.

It is the right length now to fit between the ends and in the next picture a start has been made on shaping the card to be glued in place. It was taped in place and then inverted into an old tinplate roof section and a heavy weight applied. In 24 hours it was ready for shellacking.

The buffers are inserted temporarily with the heads pushed into the tubes that serve as shanks; once it is painted they can be fixed permanently. However, the owner has decided that he wants integral buffers fitted instead so these are scheduled to be removed.

Being a Saloon the seating is naturally non-standard so took while to make up using Slater's parts and modifying where necessary. The two low couches that go under the windows in the central compartment will be glued to the floor but the rest will be glued to the compartment partitions.

The roof continued; this time I was successful in getting the card to stick to the wood evenly. The shellac gave a good hard surface to work with and so the roof furniture was easy to measure up for and fit

Here is the roof finally complete with the gas piping. I discovered that the kit had no part for the gas control rod so made one up from spare door handles and scrap.

I had been aware that something was not quite right with the completed coach but could not figure out what it was until this picture was taken and the penny dropped. The vacuum pipes are in the wrong place; they are where they would be for a GW coach. Now it will be necessary to make some up as per the instructions and fit them in the centre. The holes for the buffers will remain for my friend to fit his own preferred pattern and couplings too. I have corrected the vacuum pipes as can be seen in the picture at the top the page.

The roof also needed a method to ensure that it can only be fitted one way and to hold it place. I did not want to use small screws because, too small and they would not do the job and larger risks splitting the wood. I drilled out four holes in line with the end roof mounting bars and fitted brass pegs such that they hold the roof in line. Two of the diagonal pegs were deliberately set slightly off centre and the corresponding holes opened out so it will now only fit one way.

A very interesting build and one relatively easy for anyone with some experience of etched kits but not for the beginner.