SQL Server
DRIVER={SQL Server};SERVER=sql11.hostinguk.net;DATABASE=gaugegu1_gog2;UID=gaugegog1;PWD=g2Fr8*r6=yN-_4DUs$z!45;

Gladiator	Dave and Trisha Hill
10 Merion Grove	01332510346
Littleover
DERBY	Email: railwaycitytrains@btinternet.com
Derbyshire	Web: http://www.gladiatormodels.com
DE23 4YR

Note: Geoff Stratford was the former proprietor of Gladiator referred to in this article.

This is being built for Geoff Stratford at Gladiator. It was built exactly as it comes out of the box with no modifications what-so-ever, (and you can see where I missed with the Halford's can too!) There were only nine of them built in real life and they must have had a fairly restricted area of operations so one was unlikely to have seen on the branch pick-up goods, but interesting just the same.

So what comes in the box? Just about everything one needs save for wheels, paint and transfers. There are nine pages of instructions, which include exploded diagrams, a labelled copy of the etched sheets and painting instructions.

The sturdy box is more than adequate for holding the completed model; in fact one could probably get two in it. The etches are marked 'Majestic Models for June 2002'. The instructions need to be read carefully and matched up with the diagrams before starting.

The central frames need careful attention, especially when constructing the channels, which are basically edge soldered though there some tabs and half slots to help. The magnets came to my aid as usual so that it could all be held together square for soldering up. If this section is made dead square, the following construction should present few problems.

There is a honeycomb of small parts that go to make up the bed of the vehicle before the deck it fitted, which I soldered in after the end plates had been fitted.

These plates help to ensure that the side frames are square as well as support the overlays that come later. Here I have also added the sole bar overlay and part of the decking to show how the girder is made up. The side frames need to be the correct way round and are marked with an 'A' at one end to aid in this. The platforms at either end are not easy to construct requiring several small parts to be soldered at right angles. However, I found it simpler to fit the base plates (parts 23) to the frame before fitting the remaining parts. The brake rigging must be fitted at an early stage, as shown here. The bottom plates for the chain pockets can also be seen too. It's somewhat overdue for a clean-up I think.

The wheels also need to be fitted before fixing the overlays around the axles. As you can see I did not do it this way initially and have fitted an overlay, so fitting the wheels at that end was a tad more complex. The wheel sets must be fitted while the whole thing stands on a flat plate to prevent wobble.

There is no provision for compensation, though I think that it could be fitted with relative ease if one sacrificed some of the brake gear. I'd certainly do if it were for me, I do not like uncompensated wagons.

Here we are with the wheels and brakes fitted and one end of the vehicle with all its overlays soldered in place.

The completed vehicle awaiting a trip to the paint shop. You will see that it has cast white metal buffer (Ugh!) but I am fairly certain there are sprung versions available from somewhere. Had I been building it for myself, they would have gone straight into the rubbish bin. On this vehicle I set up the couplings for fitting with springs as I do not think the buffer beam strong enough to support soldered hooks, but it could be strengthened.

For someone with experience of etched brass kits, this should present few problems, I built it in a couple of afternoons, but for a beginner it would be daunting. On the whole a well produced kit of an obscure prototype. All it needs now are paint, lettering and some chains and shackles. |}}