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Much has been written in the Gazette about the assembly of Ian Kirk coach kits, but comment about the fiddly process of fitting the roof is usually glossed over as being a straightforward exercise if one follows the instructions. Although this article is specifically related to Gresley bow ended coaches, the method described can be successfully applied to any of the kits in the Kirk range.

The generic instruction sheet for Ian Kirk coach kits suggest that the sides and ends are assembled as shown in a sketch at the bottom of the page and the resulting structure is strengthened by trimming the roof to shape and then cementing it in place.

In my opinion this opens up a couple of further issues.

• Firstly, the fitting of the roof to the body shell (which is a fairly weak structure at this stage) is a delicate process and distortion can lead to cumulative errors that are extremely hard to correct at what will be a vital visual point in the finished model.
• Secondly, it is somewhat easier to fit the windows and internal detailing from the top rather than the bottom.

Therefore, I would always fix the floor inside the sides and ends which ensures that the whole unit is square and rigid before attempting to make the necessary adjustments to the top of the body and the ends of the bowed roof. It is also worth pointing out that the pre-shaped tumblehome at the bottom of the body moulding tapers to a knife edge and would be vulnerable to damage if the floor were to be taken in and out several times during the construction process.

The following is my approach. Cut a strip of 1.5mm thick plasticard 32mm wide and of a length equal to the inside length of the assembled body minus 4mm (2 x 2mm which is the thickness of the supplied partition panels). This is glued exactly in the centre of the underside of the roof enabling its cross sectional profile to be adjusted to match more accurately the shape on the top of the end panels whilst at the same time reducing its flexibility.

Trim two of the partition panels so that they are a tight fit between the sides of the body at each end (identify them A + B) and slide them down to a position where a line can be marked corresponding to the shape of the end panel and cut to shape. The picture shows the partition slightly raised above the end to show the marked line.

Place the roof upside down on a flat surface, glue the strip using tube cement and locate centrally on the underside of the roof using a piece of wood and G-cramps to hold these two components in position.

Offer up the newly formed partition panels A&B as a guide, increase the pressure on the cramps until the inside roof profile matches the curve at each end and then cement the panels in place ensuring that they are at right angles and square to the roof. This process will widen the roof moulding by about 1.5mm. When finally positioned on the body, this slight increase in width gives a representation of the cant rail overhang.

Leave the roof assembly overnight while the glue sets, slide the unit into position and gradually adjust any minor discrepancies by filing until the end panels match the roof profile exactly. Drill and tap a hole to suit a 10BA countersunk bolt in the centre of each moulded end door panel about 15mm down from the roof line and screw in place.

Finally, after the glazing and the interior has been fitted, further strength may be added by the ‘tack gluing’ plasticard bracing panels cut to the correct internal width at cant rail level.