LSWR Signal box design and build Part 2
This article is split into two documents, due to file size limitations. ‘LSWR Type 1 Signal Box.Part 1’ & ‘LSWR Type 1 Signal Box. Part 2’
SRSteve - Nov 4, 2017 at 6:30 PM
Next: Window experiments etc
Using Draftsight I set up a Print Sheet suiting some labels I had to hand and printed these out. Some of these were painted with Shellac as per Raymond's earlier recommendation
I used some acrylic sheet from a CD case as the glazing.
In the photo below I have tried the following:
Using narrow plasticard sections, double sided tape trimmed on the sections, with a drawing placed underneath the glazing, I did this rather roughtly but this is Top Left: I found the tape was rather unstable and the sections can move slightly, overall look and profile wasn't bad, the single strip on the right was a test using card glue which seemed to work pretty well.
Middle top is a self adhesive label with an attempt to cut out individual panes.
Top Right is a self adhesive label, but cutting right across the window ( ie including through the bars); this produced a neater, straighter finish when the “panes” were peeled away.
Middle bottom is the same as top right but using a double thickness of label to improve the profile; this worked well too.
Finally, bottom left, is a single label which has been shellaced and cut right across; this has definitely produced the best finish so far.
At the moment, the best option seems to be double thickness “shellacced” self adhesive label, the labels approach is a lot less fiddly than trying to align plasticard strips.
I do not have access to a “magic” profile cutter so do not have this option
I also shellacced the box built so far retrospectively as handling was starting to make areas of the card go “woolly”. I've also painted the brick areas with my basic mortar colour, this has come out quite light in the photo.
SRSteve - Nov 16, 2017 at 11:00 PM
I've switched attention to the roof:
I'd previously ( for Type 4 Box Roof replacement) created a file in Word which was basically a table with cells the right size for 7mm Countess slates (which the LSWR seemed to use for their signal boxes) coloured in slate colours with grey, blue and green hues. I'd printed these onto an A4 size self adhesive label sheet, cut into strips and stuck these onto the basic roof assembly. I started to do this for the Type 1 Box, but I'd had a problem with poor adhesion and “lifting” slates ( see photo below) earlier and this started to happen almost immediately on this roof so I tried a similar approach using some stout cartridge paper/ thin card.
The photos below show the printed sheet and the sheet cut into strips, once I had the strips, I used grey/ dark green/ dark blue permanent marker pens to colour the white edge of the paper; I did this also around the bottom edge of the roof assembly to avoid any white showing through if I left any small gaps. I also went along the slate lower edge of each strips cutting the vertical joints about a third the length of the slate and randomly cutting “chips” in the slates.
I drew guide lines for the upper edge of the strips on the roof surface and then, from the bottom up, stuck the overlapping and overlength strips to the roof using slightly watered down Evostick PVA woodglue. I was quite pleased with the relief provided by the paper thickness etc. After leaving to dry for a while the excess length was trimmed back using a scalpel and a small rule along the ridge. The photos below show a WIP view and an almost finished view of the tiling. Ridge poles and flashing will be added using plasticard rod and 5 thou plasticard strips.
Probably back to the windows next:
I have printed my window labels and shellacced ready for use; I have to confess a small cheat in that when I made some card window blanks up to test fit etc. I discovered that some of the window openings were a shade too small. To avoid some tricky fine trimming I have printed the windows at 1:45.1 rather than 1:43.5 !!!!
SRSteve - Nov 29, 2017 at 10:18 PM
First trials at the windows……Windows printed from Draftsight onto self adhesive labels, labels shellacced, then double thickness stuck onto acrylic from a CD case. A Scalpel was used to cut the window lines using a ruler right across each window. Before any panes were removed a couple of light coats of satin white were applied as per Paul Tomlinson's suggestion, Once dry the scalpel was lightly run through again to avoid any “sticktion”. Then the panes were carefully lifted with a scalpel and removed carefully with tweezers, I found a cocktail stick cut to a chisel end was quite useful too. The photos below are quite unforgiving and shows I need to practice a bit(lot) more to get the cuts consitently square and straight.
Looking a bit more like “rustic shack” than signalbox at the moment but it was my first go ! If I can get the cutting sorted I thing the method will work though.
I am following the brick painting thread too and have prepared a couple of sample pieces of the embossed card I have used on the signalbox to try the Intentio technique; have primer on so far and am already concerned I am losing the relief for the cement courses. I am suspecting the laser cut provides a deeper recess.
Tomlinson5811 - Nov 30, 2017 at 11:20 AM
Steve, I think you're correct re. laser-cut brickwork. Sharply-defined and deeply-cut - which gives superb results following Stephen Fay's demo. on Intentio's site. You're using embossed card, which is softly-defined and quite shallow cut. I'd recommend reading through Bob Alderman's brick-painting tutorial, to which he has provided links in the “Modelling” section of the forum. I'd describe it as akin to a “dry brushing” technique, where brick colour is applied over mortar (the opposite of the Intentio technique). I'd also suggest the “dry finger” technique (!) - dabbing using a lightly-loaded finger…
Another method, which I haven't seen mentioned for a long time, is akin to “brass rubbing”. I saw a article where the technique was to “scribble” lightly across the surface of the card, using wax crayons of various hues. It looked very effective. You could also try this with pastel chalks (Lidl) - this would need “fixing” afterwards to avoid smudging.
I'm particularly enjoying your thread, because you're crafting everything from scratch. Bravo.
SRSteve - Nov 30, 2017 at 9:06 PM
Thanks for the encouragement Paul. I wanted to try at least making it all from scratch even if I bale out eventually in favour of laser cut, etched etc. On my resin Type 4 box I used coloured art pencils which can be got in an enormous range of colours. Light shading across the raised brickwork, mixing the hues worked pretty well. I think this is similar to your brass rubbing technique. I found it has the advantage of avoiding the smudging into the cement courses which can happen with paint and you can be quite precise . I am keen to learn the paint technique so I will re-read Bob's tutorial as suggested.
SRSteve - Nov 30, 2017 at 9:45 PM
Here's a shot of what I achieved with this technique on the Type 4 box; it looks a bit lighter than it actually is.
SRSteve - Dec 19, 2017 at 8:21 PM
At last a bit more done ! I have been experimenting with the Bob Alderman technique for painting brickwork, following some of the posts on one of the other threads. I wanted to see if I could get somewhere with painting rather than using the art pencils I've used before. I set up a couple of test pieces using the thicker embossed card and the thinner modern embossed card from Howard scenics I have been using for the box. I was using a Vallejo acrylic for the test, in this case “Terracotta”. Undercoat was grey primer, which I left as the mortar colour and then a flat brush with the paint. Initially I splodged a bit and the paint obscured the mortar, but I gradually got better, ensuring the brush was “dryer”. Where I'd splodged and went back and used the paint on the mortar colour then wipe off with a moist cloth, this worked quite well; you can see the areas on the photo below where this has been done. The photo has not come out that well, actually, as it looks like the final mortar repair colour is much more smeared than it really is. My mortar colour is a B&Q tester called “Cafe au Lait”; it's good for SNCF modellers ! The photo also shows up how you need to vary direction of brush strokes. Still, I am sufficiently encouraged to carry on and get a few orangy/ yellow colours as the pure terrocatta is a bit dark for the souther effect I was looking for. The eagle eyed amongst you can try and spot the individual bricks I highlighted with matt orange
SRSteve - Dec 19, 2017 at 8:44 PM
Bit more practice with cutting out the windows has been rewarded with progress too; Initially I worked on one of the simpler windows
I found that an Exacto blade, which is stiffer, seemed to help get a straighter cut with less tendency to wander, compared to the Swann Morton scalpel; I also decided to stay with a single thickness of window “label” Here's some WIP photos of the process > Print Windows on Labels> Shellac to aid cutting> Stick to glazing (CD Case acrylic)> Cut window lines> Spray with Satin Acrylic> Check cut lines / run over with blade> Lift “Pane” areas with scalpel> > Cut windows to size. One of the disadvantages of having to interrupt sessions with longish gaps in between means you forget where you are up to, at least I do, hence spot the deliberate mistake on the upper panel which illustrates the challenge presented by spraying with paint before cutting out the window lines !
Followed below by one of the more complex windows nearing completion and then positioned in place in the signal box.
It's not perfect, but I am seriously happy with the improvement from the first attempts. The remaining windows have been stuck to the glazing material and are ready for cutting ahead of painting. May be another delay as we are away for Christmas
SRSteve - Jan 2, 2018 at 8:51 PM
More work in Progress on the Windows…. On the basis that it will take multiple goes to get it right I have started to print and work on multiple copies of the windows ! It's definitely getting better but it looks like there will a fair few discards before I get enough good uns!
Photo below summarises my technique development so far; print label, shellac, scribe panes with scalpel and spray acylic matt white, I found it a good idea to check after painting and run the knife lightly through any areas looking as though they were not cut properly or clogged with paint. Mostly, this was ensuring all cuts went right into the corners. The cuts are a lot easier to see after spraying. I found it necessary to use a rule to lay over adjacent frames when teasing the panes up in the corner with the scalpel, and move it round to protect the panes as the rest of the pane is carefully lifted with the tweezers. I have had some problems with the frames lifting from the glazing, so I have ordered some better quality Avery labels to see if these are any better; I am hoping they may be of better paper and cut a little cleaner too.
Heres one of the main window frames nearing completion; I am trying to work out how best to show one of these windows with the opening sash part open, so this one uses thinner and flexible acrylic. It also shows the need to tape the piece down better for painting as you can see a bit of splatter on the reverse where it fluttered up a little during painting; I am hoping that careful use of isopropanol will remove this.
Finally, a close up of one of the side windows in position, there's the framing and cill to make up before fitting; needs a bit of touching up too but overall not looking too bad at all. Again here, thinking of how to get the relief of the sliding sash into it better. First idea was to add plasticard strips over the label frames.
SRSteve - Jan 22, 2018 at 8:04 PM
After various trails and tribulations and quite a number of discards I have now assembled a collection of almost acceptable windows; perhaps still a little thick on the window bars but the photos make it look a bit heavier. I have settled on using enamel spray for the white(Wilco's best) which maintains the finish better during cutting of the panes etc. I am going to have one more round of experimenting now I have good quality Avery labels, hoping these will be able to allow finer trimming. You can see two windows in place below and some of the samples on the mat below.
SRSteve - Jan 29, 2018 at 10:38 PM
I'll actually fit some windows soon ! First batch of Windows using better quality labels, this has definitely aided finer frame cutting; I have one more batch which I am spraying tonight , then I should have plenty of good ones to pick from. On the photo I have stuck some labels on the reverse to protect the glazing surface.
SRSteve - Mar 3, 2018 at 5:15 PM
Progress has been delayed by a number of factors, principally, my wife's hip operation!
I now have a set of windows I consider to be acceptable and turned to painting the brickwork. I have studied a number of approaches, especially the Bob Alderman “tutorials” which is the approach I have adopted……..BUT I am really struggling to get a good results and need some advice before my safety valve lifts. The brickwork is original (thicker) and modern ( thinner) Howard scenics embossed English bond card. A base mortar colour has been applied using an emulsion sample pot, then I have used Vallejo acrylics to get the colouring “dry” brushed on. I practiced a fair bit before starting on the box itself but I consider the results to be poor, I need to adjust the colouring a little, but the main problem is that the window between an overcharged brush which blotches paint into the mortar course and a dry brush which is too dry and does not colour the bricks at all seems to be tiny. I was brushing the majority of the paint off on a scrap piece of card before applying to the model. You can see what I mean in the following photos; one or two areas are not bad but you can see the blotched bits clearly. Some advice would be gratefully received……Can this be done with acrylics? will other brands be any better? Can the drying rate be slowed down? Thoughts on how to recover the poor areas…..I am close to trying to peel off the embossed card but this will be high risk, I suspect.
SRSteve - Mar 26, 2018 at 9:53 PM
Following advice from the forum, especially with thanks to Paul Tomlinson, I have been recovering the brickwork and making some good progress overall. Key challenge is finding a scriber which is the right width to make a groove and not too sharp to cut into the card. I need to work a bit more on my colour knowledge so I can mix up consistent brick colouring from session to session also. For your interest I have posted a before and after (near completion) of one of the end elevations.
Definitely feel I am moving in the right direction now. I have all the windows done now and will post some more pictures soon when I have fixed them in position but wanted to finish the brickwork first.
SRSteve - Apr 8, 2018 at 9:09 PM
Quite a bit of progress to report…
Windows now being fitted, picture below shows front windows being glued in place supported by a greaseproof paper lined backing piece (idea was that glue would not stick to it…it did!!), Also, porch ready to be fitted to main box
Below some more shots of the box with all but rear window in place. As always, photo is a bit cruel but at least the brickwork looks 200% better now.
And finally, I couldn't resist putting the bits together to see what the finished thing will look like, I'd also added the gutters by this stage…..U section plasticard from Cornwall Model Boats…see other testimonies elsewhere on the forum……..I cut an oblong of 30 thou plasticard to fit top of box outside wall dimensions, fitted gutters, then when it had all hardened, cut out the centre to the internal wall dimensions, gutter joints in tape etc. Gutters will be attached to walls as recommended by others on the forum.
Next steps will be fitting the window cills, sliding entry door, fitting porch and I have started thinking about the stairs….. I've already repaired the slight green overspills onto the stone boarding.
SRSteve - Apr 30, 2018 at 10:57 PM
A bit more slow and steady progress !
Porch now fitted with basswood support legs, not too clear from the picture , outer door is ajar, inner sliding door on ground a/w fitting. Roof and gutter in position but not fixed yet. I have cut out the external window cills and need to drill and fit the stubby peg guides for the sliding windows (See early in this thread).
The stairs will be, hopefully, the last big challenge. I have resisted the temptation of buying something pre-made. The stairs were drawn out on my main drawing on Draftsight, then printed out as seen below and used for marking up 30 thou plasticard before cutting out. The cut out stair sides can be seen on the first 2 photos above and below are the strips (30 thou again) for the treads and Porch supports ready for fitting (I made a few spares!!)
I have ordered up a few bits (lever frame, bell instruments etc) from Invertrain ready to do the internals and I am feeling positive that the end is approaching now !
SRSteve - May 20, 2018 at 8:36 PM
I have made some good progress this weekend as the exterior of the box moves even closer to completion ! Steps, gutters, window cills and frames and chimney have all been added and painted. For the exterior, I think I just have drain pipes, fire bucket holder, and working out how to best hold the roof in position. Oh yes, and to add the missing bit of lead/ flashing to the apex of the roof.
I have the ModelU signal man somewhere starting to fret about how to fit out the inside of the box !!!!! How many levers? How many section telegraphs? shall we make the fireplace glow ?
End of thread 4/2/2019