Razor saws


Prepared by Tommy Day Originator JB72

jb72 - Jun 19, 2018 at 9:14 AM
Can anyone recommend a decent razor saw that doesn't seem to get blunt rather quickly?
John


John Kneeshaw - Jun 19, 2018 at 11:00 AM
Hi JB
There is large range of tools that come with the label razor saw. For fine work I like the JLC range with interchangeable razor shaped blades. Like this one - eBay item 122946473829
They are available elsewhere too.
John K


Lamb18400 - Jun 19, 2018 at 12:48 PM
John,
With razor type saws it's very much down to the material you are cutting as to how long they will keep a reasonable edge for. Like you , I found it quiet easy to blunt saws especially when cutting nickel silver so I resorted to soft soldering some 1 1/4“ x 32 t.p.i band saw blade into a split length of brass tube to make the back / tang.
Guy


SimonD - Jun 19, 2018 at 6:28 PM
Following a discussion about saws, I reversed the blade in one of my razor saws to make a pull-saw. It seems to be an improvement, although I’d not claim its massively different. It snags a bit less, and doesn’t bend when it does.
Best
Simon


Rowe22790 - Jun 22, 2018 at 4:51 PM
Some while back I purchased a new blade for my razor saw from an Expo dealer and I found that the teeth were set to use as a pull saw. I had been thinking that it was a manufacturing error but now I'm not so sure. Has anybody else come across this?
However as Simon says, it does snag much less and it has become my preferred method of use. Strange how Japanese saws are invariably pull saws but western saws all seem to be of the push variety.
Phil


DLOS - Jun 22, 2018 at 9:28 PM
Some of the Exacto blades with many fine teeth are set up as pull saws; I do prefer it. David


jb72 - Jun 22, 2018 at 10:22 PM
Agreed on Japanese pull saws. As a recent convert I’m completely sold on them.
John


Hayes22052 - Jun 23, 2018 at 7:05 AM
The great advantage of the Japanese “Dozuki” type saw is the quality of the steel and the finess of the kerf.
Plus if you have a backless version they can be finger flexed to cut level with a flat surface.


Nev Rossiter - Jun 23, 2018 at 7:25 AM
I've always had success with the “Zona” saws and used them for years replacing them when they go blunt, BUT, having said that I looked at those Japanese saws and immediately ordered one to try. The power of eBay strikes again!
Nev.


DavidL - Jul 9, 2018 at 3:40 PM
This got me thinking. I have several razor saws (Exacto, I think). They work fine on plastic or wood, but they seem to me a bit feeble to work well on brass. If I had to use something of that nature on brass I would prefer to use a broken full-size hacksaw blade in a holder I have for that purpose. You can fit it whichever way round you like, so the pull saw option is there. You may have to break off the pin at the end to fit it in the handle.

The point about cutting level on a flat surface needs further consideration. Saws (almost) always have their teeth set alternately left and right; this is so that as they cut they make a kerf (gap) wider than the saw blade, to avoid having it stick in the cut. Thus if you use a normal saw to make a cut flat to a surface, if you want the finished surface to have any pretensions to a finish, you need to remove the set teeth from one side (or get hold of a saw made this way).

I have never seen a metal cutting saw made this way, but they are not uncommon for woodworking, Here is one I have; apologies for the rust, it's been sitting unused in my workshop for several years.

I hope you can see clearly that the teeth on the bottom side (photos 2 and 3 are taken from the bottom side) have no set (and looks as if it was made that way). It is excellent for cutting off protruding dowels etc, though if I was doing fine cabinetmaking I think I might need to give the bottom a few strokes on a stone to remove the traces of sharpness (just as I described for tweaking the safe edges on files in an earlier thread). Of course, if is always possible to remove the set teeth from one side of any saw blade using this method. Do be aware, however, that if you treat a blade in this way it is very unlikely to cut in a straight line if used normally.

David