Prepared by Tommy Day

Originator Bob Alderman

Thread and Forum Title Bob A's Ruston 48DS from Judith Edge kit.

Thread start date Jul 18, 2017

For full Forum thread click here : - https://www.gaugeoguild.com/xenforo/index.php?threads/bob-as-ruston-48ds-from-judith-edge-kit.565/

Bob Alderman - Jul 18, 2017 at 6:30 PM Besides the 1P I have been doing some other modelling.There is an 8F for a club member. I'll not say much here until it is more complete as I am rewriting the instructions for the manufacturer as I go. Otherwise two “tiny locos” have occupied me. One is complete, a Greenwood Batley battery electric loco from a Derek Mundy kit. The other still in build is a Ruston 48DS from a Judith Edge kit. This is a new kit and I may be the first to have purchased one. So far I have completed the chassis

This has two chains from the motor driving each axle. This follows the prototype I believe but I think I am going to change it to the motor driving the front axle and a single chain linking the axles. This shows the bare chassis with the arms holding the bearings at the compensation end. When I had a query about the assembly Mike Edge said they should have been on the inside, but they work well enough on the outside. I failed to photograph the outside chassis but in the first picture it is the black surface, chemically blackened as a solder resist. The cab and bonnet are built up on the bright piece that is bolted to the chassis. Typical Edge construction.

This the chassis as a rolling entity. The plate at the back is the cab floor. . From underneath the two chains from the motor layshaft and nearest the compensation pivot. Back to the top the bonnet added to the cab. In spite of half etch lines to create the sharp curve it needed a lot of chasing to make it fit the profile, but successfully acheived and the small external corner radius filed on. All the soldering to attach the bonnet is from the inside accessing through the sides and underneath. Rather rusty screws holding the cab assembly to the chassis in view. And finally for now the chassis against the body. You can perhaps see why I will go for the alternative drive arrangement, it all seems very tight.

Bob

Bob Alderman - Jul 22, 2017 at 4:46 PM Some more on the Ruston. All the brasswork on the body completed; only the buffers to add. These will need a little modification to reduce the intrusion behind the buffer beam. Several of the parts added since the previous posting were only found because a) they were left on the etch and b) because examination of the drawing showed them. No mention in the instructions. 

 {{:forum:forumlocos:ruston_9_.jpg?400|}}{{:forum:forumlocos:ruston_10_.jpg?400|}}

Fitting the roof was far easier than anticipated. Forming the shape was aided by a special set of bending bars I have that will form the sharper radii at the sides of the roof. See Hints and Tips where I illustrate it. Similarly matching the exhaust pipe hole in the roof to the one on the bonnet was done without difficulty, serendipity here. I suspect it could be one of those jobs that could take all day as the roof slides about. The exhaust pipe was unintentially blackened as it, with some other bits, was involved in a spillage of the blackening fluid! My continuing failing dexterity has resulted in an excess of solder in places. The Ruston plate had one end filled with it. It has not been removed. I fluxed the surface, heated it and it has run and tinned it. The coupling hooks, not supplied, are Slater's. They have to be shortened until about 1mm remains behind the flange of the hook. It doesn't leave much to solder. Now to finish the chassis. Bob

Bob Alderman - Jul 24, 2017 at 6:32 PM The end is nigh! I've nearly run out of parts to attach, rebuilt the chassis to a simpler drive configuration. Pick-ups have been added and the chassis test run. The final soldering was the addition of the sanding pipes. The motor/gearbox installed; I've added two strips of fret to support the motor vertically. These have to be let into the top edge of the chassis to allow the body to sit down. The simplified drive. Unusually this installation ended up with a chain that ended up just the right number of links, so often it's link to many or too few! See an earlier photo for the complex prototypical drive. There is not much space for a base for the pickups. The copperclad strips have to avoid blocking the action of the rocking arm (perhaps that why it should be inside?). I have used phos. bronze wire rubbing on the back of the flanges. It stuttered down my test track. At this stage there is very little weight to help contact. However this was improved with a weight balanced on the cab floor. You will note the strips of copperclad on the motor. I use these to avoid constant soldering/unsoldering the wires to the motor terminals. The pick-ups are wired to these strips. If this were to be a DCC loco on each strip the copper would be divided in two. The decoder would then bridge the gap. The body complete with buffers. The only parts left to fit are the resin cast parts; sand boxes at the front, gauges in the cab and, what I think are two filler caps. I need to look at some prototype pictures to invent a control panel. Then into the paint shop. Bob

Haines10259 - Jul 24, 2017 at 8:21 PM That's a good tip using the copperclad Bob - it looks like they are just epoxied to the motor body. A lot simpler than my contrivances.

Bob Alderman - Jul 24, 2017 at 11:38 PM It's Zap -a- Gap plus Zip Kicker, can't wait for epoxy! One has to be shortened as it stops the chassis fitting the body - a cutting disc should do the trick. Bob

Tony Geary - Jul 25, 2017 at 7:46 AM Looks tidy Bob - I don't think I've ever built an engine that small!

Bob Alderman - Jul 25, 2017 at 1:21 PM Something's gone awry! Put the whole loco on the track and there was a short. Put the chassis alone on the track and there was a short. Puzzled. Nothing seems different from yesterday when it ran. Searching……searched found nothing untoward, reassembled - runs sweet as a nut! Bob

Bob Alderman - Jul 26, 2017 at 12:12 PM Does any know what the cab interior is like, control panel etc? I've done a web search but no pictures inside the cab only a cabless/floorless one that shows the brake lever and gear stick. A 4mm build features on RM web but as the motor on that occupies the cab, no controls. Oddly the builder made the same “errors” as me! Bob

Dave_Summers15598 - Jul 26, 2017 at 1:39 PM Bob Take a look at this thread - it may help [URL]http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/112221-the-ruston-48ds-class-a-rivet-counters-guide[/URL] Dave

Bob Alderman - Jul 26, 2017 at 2:23 PM Dave Slightly helpful. It appears there is nothing like a console. Thanks Bob

Dave_Summers15598 - Jul 27, 2017 at 11:52 AM Bob I assume that you don't have a copy of 'The Ruston' by David Hall. It adds little to what is visible in the photos to which I linked earlier. There are some drawings within the book that show the positions of the change direction lever, the change speed lever (clutch), engine speed control and brake. The only foot controls are the sanders. There is no console. Dave

Bob Alderman - Jul 27, 2017 at 1:30 PM Dave I have now been pointed at some prototype photos which show the three levers and other odds very clearly. Now to make them… Bob

Dave_Summers15598 - Jul 27, 2017 at 2:22 PM [URL='https://www.lincstothepast.com/searchResults.aspx?qsearch=1&keywords=48DS&x=0&y=0'][B]This[/B][/URL] site has most of the 48DS original drawings that you're ever likely to need! Dave

Bob Alderman - Jul 27, 2017 at 3:16 PM Excellent! Thanks Dave I'll make the link a Favourite. It turns out we have one at the Yeovil Junction site. A friend has just sent me photos and measurements he took this morning. However I'll look through the drawings as I still don't know the function of the three positon lever. Bob

Bob Alderman - Jul 27, 2017 at 9:28 PM On the basis of information received…the brake lever. Bob

Bob Alderman - Jul 29, 2017 at 3:42 PM On the basis of the information received from various sources- thank you, I've now added such detail as I am able. It could be considered a sketch but it is the prominent parts. The kit design with one floor on the chassis and the remainder around the cab does limit the total accuracy, especially at this stage when the detail came to light once virtually complete. To a degree it could be easier if done earlier. This shows what has been added to the floor on the chassis. At the rear the brake lever; the three position lever the combined clutch and gear lever. In the middle of the floor the pimple is a filler cap, possibly oil for the transmission. Looking at all the clutter on the floor this is a cab abounding with trip hazards! This is the forward/reverse select lever and quadrant, just inside the right hand cab opening. The lever and quadrant are attached to the portion of floor that is fixed to the cab side. Soldering them at this stage was a bit like keyhole surgery through the door opening. Easier without the roof perhaps? The view through the doorway. Is it worth it being so difficult to see? Yes, I think so; I know its there. Even so there is detail I've not added, a rail across the front spectacle plate and electrical conduit and other small bits. The tops of the rear sand boxes go in the back cab corners and some locos have wooden seat/cupboard behind the left had cab doorway… and so on. For me now a driver will complete the cab eventually. I'm now preparing the various assemblies for painting. Bob

Bob Alderman - Jul 30, 2017 at 8:14 PM Now in primer. It's wonderful how a coat of paint smooths out the rough edges. I've been debating the final colour. I had thought yellow but I see from many photos they are often green. The very recent research has come up with a colour “Ruston Green” but of the various shades I have now seen no clue as to which may be this colour. A shade I would call “Holly Green” is not uncommon. Perhaps? The black bits are easy! Bob

Bob Alderman - Jul 30, 2017 at 8:25 PM Would you Adam and Eve it! My friend Google has come up with the colour; a deep bronze green and there are several paint makers selling it. BUT… it appears intended for their stationary engines not locos. These all seem a little lighter perhaps due to weathering. In the colours illustrated there was a Tamiya acrylic that looked a close match. Bob

DLOS - Jul 30, 2017 at 9:38 PM During a conversation in 'the other place' (RMWeb) a member with the handle of Ruston, who knows a thing or two about their output, said to me of the colour: [I]“When I built my 48DS, I painted it with Revell Deep Bronze Green, which is as good a match in model paints as you'll get.”[/I] I hope this might help, Bob. David

Bob Alderman - Jul 30, 2017 at 10:41 PM Thank you David The local aeromodeller's shop stocks Revell. However, being unable to get to the shop in next few days or more I have placed an web order from elsewhere. Bob

Bob Alderman - Aug 13, 2017 at 4:00 PM Finished, bar some light weathering. Three parts; chassis, footplate and cab all assembled after painting. The loco has been brush painted with a very unsteady hand and finished with Dullcote to even out the finish. Last parts to go on were the two sandboxes at the front. A small recesss had to cut to accept the nut on the back of the buffer. Needed if the buffer was going to compress. The glazing has suffered from the wobbly hands and there is an excess of Canopy glue on the them which blurs the view - dirt? Now for a layout to run it on? Bob

PS. Now I upload the pictures I notice the dust from the sand boxes all over it!

fuller22695 - Sep 28, 2017 at 7:49 PM Hi very nice model what motor and gearbox did you use also what wheels. Cheers

Bob Alderman - Sep 28, 2017 at 9:26 PM Its a Roxey 40:1 with a Mashima 1420 for a 4mm loco. The wheels are the correct ones from Slater's. Bob

fuller22695 - Sep 29, 2017 at 7:51 PM Hi thank you for the info just ordered my kit think I will motorise it the same way you have done yours. Cheers

Bob Alderman - Oct 14, 2017 at 8:40 PM Final instalment. A driver and the newness removed. To improve the running I have had to add one more link to the drive chain. As first built it was too tight leading to the loco hopping and skipping down the track! Now a bit too slack but it now runs smoothly. Bob

———————————————————————————————————- LittleLocoCompany - Oct 18, 2017 at 2:43 PM

Hello Bob, apologies as I've only just noticed this thread. I could have helped out with works drawings, cab details and other finer points, including a set of badges and plates from our model – I have a few spares all pre-painted. You've done a lovely job!

Bob Alderman - Oct 19, 2017 at 12:01 PM Thank you Steve. The extra details were found on the net with pointers from this Forum, earlier posts. It had its first major run last night. Two laps of The Summit= 2 scale miles. Running was fine except it sounded like an angry mosquito. Some damping inside the body needed and lubricating it would have helped! Absolute chaos here yesterday as my workshop was dismantled pending it becoming my bedroom. Some restoration as I now have a small table to work on. Bob

fuller22695 - Jan 13, 2018 at 5:55 PM Hi bob I’ve just built the chassis and added the wheels I noticed there is a lot of room either side of the chassis and the wheels move about a lot I noticed in your pictures yours look the same do you just use the sprocket and chain to keep them in the same place I thought about washers? Any info would be appreciated . Cheers coli ==== Bob Alderman - Jan 13, 2018 at 6:10 PM Colin I need to check. Have to recover the loco from wherever my wife has put it for safety whilst we have had workmen in the house. Bob ==== fuller22695 - Jan 13, 2018 at 10:30 PM Hi ok Bob thank you. Colin

Bob Alderman - Jan 14, 2018 at 3:48 PM Colin Loco recovered. One axle is located by the motor/gearbox/sprocket and the other uses washers against the frame. Bob

fuller22695 - Jan 15, 2018 at 7:14 AM Hi thank you for that I thought I had been given the wrong axles lol much appreciated. Colin

End of thread