RADIO CONTROL HAS LONG BEEN used to control garden railways. The benefits of not having to power long lengths of outdoor track work are obvious. The use of larger locos with roomy tenders enables the use of relatively large battery packs and other RC components.

Now with the availability of smaller components, better battery packs and more efficient motors, the benefits of Radio Control can be transferred to all but the smallest ‘O’ Gauge locos. By using a match truck, even the tiny NER K Class can be converted to RC.

There is no need for pickups or rail wiring. Because power is direct from the battery to the motor there are no problems with short circuits, dirty wheels or pickups. No need to clean the track, you can just leave it to develop the patina of wear created by your stocks’ wheels. With RC it is the loco that is controlled, not the track. This does mean that point operation is more important because if the point is not set correctly the train will derail just like the real thing. Although not covered in this article most if not all the functionality of DCC can be achieved with RC.

It is a good idea, before you part with your hard earned cash, spending some time on the internet researching RC for model railways. I needed to ensure that I had at least some idea of what I was doing before I started cutting up perfectly good locos. ‘RC Trains’ and the ‘Dead Rail Society’ are good places to start. The DRS is an American site so much of the kit recommended is not available in the UK but it gives links to useful YouTube videos. Once you get a clear idea in your mind about what is required, the actual fitting is relatively easy.

In this article I will be looking at two systems. The first supplied by RC Micron the second by Fosworks.

Hope Street, my 17ft dead rail, layout, featuring an urban yard, and Ravensbeck a large continuous circuit, both kept at Keighley MRC, have been the test beds for my RC loco conversions. I have not tried running longer distances outdoors. I understand that most RC systems available for loco running are programmed, so that if they lose their signal, they will keep going at the speed and direction last received. Once back in range of the transmitter will will continue as if nothing happened. Very useful for a long garden railway with tunnels etc.

I have converted seven tank engines and two tender engines using Deltang components supplied by Micron RC. The Deltang range of receivers is no longer available due to the chip used going out of production. However Micron RC have developed an alternative that is compatible with existing transmitters. The pandemic chip shortage caused a delay in the delivery of the Micron MC replacement. This hiatus led to me looking at alternative systems. Fosworks have a good reputation for supplying RC for Gauge 1 and larger O gauge locos, so having a D 20 to convert I gave them a try.

Converting existing engines does present some problems, especially with small locos. A certain amount of butchery may be required. When building a new engine from scratch or kit it is easier to make provision for the RC components. The first engine I converted was an NER Class 84, a diminutive Victorian 2-4-0 saddle tank. My thinking was, “if it will fit in that, it will fit in anything”. Before fitting anything it was necessary to buy a transmitter (controller), receiver and battery charger. The transmitter is a MCTx 22 which can be used to control up to 12 locos. The charger is suitable for the rechargeable NiMH batteries that I decided to use.

The battery pack for the Class 84 is made up of four AAA batteries, that fit comfortably in the boiler, giving an output of 4.8v. The Class 84 is fitted with an ABC motor gearbox and 4.8v is enough to power it at scale speed for a full operating session.

A fuse protects the receiver and motor. The receiver is a Deltang Rx60-22 which fits easily into the small coal bunker. The picture shows the receiver pulled out of the bunker. The receiver will not work if completely enclosed in metal. However, you can see from the photo that a small gap is enough even when concealed under coal I had to cut a hole in the bottom of the bunker so that the wiring could pass under the cab to link up with the battery and motor. It’s a bit of a tight fit but all tucks in.

The switch and charge socket were awkward to fit if I was to keep them out of sight. I settled on fitting them between the frames. Not ideal but it works. The photo shows how it all fits somewhat cosily together.

The last loco to be fitted with a Deltang receiver was a long boilered 0-6-0. Unfortunately this is the only conversion in which RC problems occurred. I had been told that these receivers were prone to losing radio contact. Of the nine locos converted this was the only one that could not maintain contact between transmitter and receiver.

As I stated earlier the Deltang kit is no longer available. To enable users to continue to use existing RC kit, Micron RC have produced a replacement receiver which is available from their website. The only problem I encountered with fitting the replacement in the tender was that it is bigger than the original. This meant that most of the scratch built tender top had to be removed. Once fitted with the new Micron MC designed receiver the loco ran smoothly with no RC contact problems.

I have not given a blow-by-blow account of the actual conversion because each one is different. However, the wiring is simple once you have worked out where you can best fit the components. Also, I have not fitted sound to any of my locos, though this is available if you have the space and inclination.

To date I have used NIhi battery packs supplied by Strikalite. Strikalite market a range of battery packs and will also make them up to order. Though if ordering a custom pack be clear that you order the right configuration. Both Micron and Fosworks will supply batteries and apropriate chargers. In fact both proprietors are very approachable and will supply all the components you need to convert a loco. Micron will also supply LiPo batteries, should you want to use them. In fact if ordering from their website and not using LiPo batteries be sure to click on the disable LCV button otherwise you will get a low battry cut out. A feature built into the receiver to prevent the LiPo from running down too far.

The small AAA battery packs ranging from 4.8v – 9.6v I have fitted to my locos will propel them at scale speed for several hours continuous running. In practice, on a layout at exhibition all day without recharging.

The current Micron receiver most suitable for ‘O’ gauge is the MR603b, it is 38x18x10mm. with a voltage range of 5V to 20v and the 3A motor current rating. This receiver is normally supplied as a bare board, with wiring options specified when ordering. I normally order the receiver with 100mm battery and motor leads and with a heat shrink cover.

The MR603b offers a range of programming features to enable you to customise the receiver to suit your model. To be honest this is an area beyond my knowledge and, probably, needs. If this is an area that interests you then check out the Micron RC web site or give them a call.

There are a number of transmitters suitable for use with the MR603b. The Tx22v2 is probably the best bet for indoor use where you may need to have more than one loco on a layout. It allows you to select up to 12 locos individually without having to switch on/off those locos not immediately needed.

The Tx22v2 transmitter is currently selling at £72.00 and a smart battery charger will be needed from around £15.00. These are one-off purchases. The parts per loco: an MR603b receiver at £45.00 - £47.00 plus switch and charge socket. Battery packs vary in price.

Fosworks offer a set of simple to use plug-in components. It is however a little more expensive than Micron. Fosworks components also take up more space as you need to fit a speed controller and a receiver into the loco making it less suitabe for small locos. That being said, if you have a larger loco and are unsure about the soldering together of the various components then Fosworks plug and play configuration makes conversion a lot easier. In fact if you buy a battery pack at the same time as the other components you will only have to fit the components in a tender and then solder the connection to the motor. The OMNI Tx -4.10R Transmitter allows 10 models to be run simultaneously, with 12 functions for DCC or DC. A range of plug in sound cards and speakers are available along with programmable features if required.

One word of warning. When connecting the battery pack be certain to make sure the polarity is correct. I inadvertantly reversed the polarity and damaged the speed controller and receiver because I fitted a slow reacting fuse. A 1.6v quick blow is recommended.

The OMNI Tx – 4.1R is currently available at £98.00 though cheaper transmitters are available. A battery charger again will cost from £15.00. The in-loco components . A Cobra ESC-161 speed controller £31.00, OMNI Rx-22 receiver £27.00 plus a switch/charger loom £9.50.

If you have small pre-grouping locos then Macron RC will be the way to go. Be prepared to adapt the loco and be imaginative with the positioning of components. Soldering connections etc. will also be required.

If you have a larger loco and want to dip your toe in the RC pond but feel you lack the skills to make the conversion then Fosworks’ plug and play, is for you. Also with this kit you are more likely to get a friend or club member to do/help with the conversion. It also offers a better range of sound cards and speakers and if you want lots of bells and whistles then it has a lot to offer.

Having bought a transmitter for each system I will continue to use both. My next loco is an NER Class W 4-6-2 tank which I will try with Fosworks kit. After all I have a transmitter with 9 loco slots to fill.

I have no connection with any of them other than being a customer.

Fosworks: Supply Transmitters Receivers and other components.

Micron Radio Control: Supply Transmitters Receivers and other components.

RC Train: A useful source of information and components with a link to a good blog.

Brian Jones: Mainly aimed at garden rail, but worth a look.

Dead Rail Society: Useful information.

There are more websites out there if you search, also YouTube is worth a look.