Judging by experience and the number of times the subject turns up on the online forums, making stretcher bars (or tiebars as some will incorrectly call them) seems to be one of the more challenging aspects of building pointwork.
Full size, the modern stretcher bar is a piece of fairly substantial flat steel strip, attached to the switch rails by forged brackets. Ambis do a very good representation of this, using etching for the brackets and thin double sided pcb for the bar itself. They work well, and look prototypical, but are fiddly to put together and, when occasionally necessary, not to easy to repair in situ. We used them on our club exhibition layout (East Dean – Hillingdon Railway Modellers) with success, but when considering that layout’s successor, decided against using them again. We had also looked at the C&L stretcher bar, but found them too insubstantial and difficult to adapt for the 31.5mm gauge standards we have been using.
The solution, for which I am grateful to David Yule, is a stretcher bar made up from double sided pcb and phosphor bronze wire. The wire provides the flexibility that is needed to accommodate the angular movement of the switch rails, whilst the pcb pads that go under each of the switch rails provide both the isolation required and a means of preventing the switch tip from rising above the stock rail (full size stretcher bars have extended ends for the same reason). The pads themselves are nominally 1/8 in slices cut crossways from a 7mm scale pcb sleeper.
The result is as shown in the appended photographs - neat and inconspicuous, as well as easy to make and install. Assembling a stretcher bar is aided by a simple jig, the arrangement of which is shown in diagram 1. I built mine out of styrene card and strip and despite having a hot soldering iron waved around near it, has not showed any signs of distress. Putting the parts together is a matter of placing the two pcb pads in the jig, laying a length of 0.5mm phosphor bronze wire over the top of them and soldering it to the pads.
In our case, the end of the wire was formed into an eye to take the drive wire from the point motor under the baseboard, but the design is readily adaptable to other drive methods. Installation is simply a matter of threading the stretcher bar through under the switches and soldering each switch rail to its respective pad, remembering to gauge the switch openings; ideally the stretcher should be installed with each switch open by half the required throw so that the drive forces are nominally balanced.
(In building any turnout, the switch rails should be set so that they just lie closed with nothing connected - anything else and the point motor has to exert more effort either pulling open or forcing closed the offending switch.)